tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61360300769403570252024-03-13T11:48:04.727-07:00Creekside CrochetAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-39829670369983306092014-03-20T00:00:00.000-07:002014-03-20T00:00:15.952-07:00Technical Thursday: A look at yarns (And some BIG news)Hello Hookers!<br />
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Again, it's been a crazy busy week by the creekside. The oil pan in our vehicle rusted through, my camera arrived, the weather's warmed up to a bearable level, my husband's work schedule changed significantly, my designers have started putting out pattern tests again, I got a bike, my old computer died and took all my stock with it(I might of mentioned that last week lol) and probably the most important thing- WE CHANGED OUR NAME!<br />
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For now, I'll keep this blog up and running with my technical thursday stuff, but I'm going to slowly start reformatting and we'll eventually be moving to a blog under our new name, which is Mutant Daisy Creations.<br />
Like us on Facebook <a href="https://www.facebook.com/mutantdaisy">HERE</a><br />
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We changed our name for a couple of reasons including the fact that there is another creekside crochet out there, recently started, with a name in front of it. We don't want any confusion between the two because the other one seems to be run by a foreigner who sells things that are not made to my standards and frankly, I don't want any type of association with them. Also, I'm adding amateur photography and other crafts to our repertoire.<br />
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We went with the name Mutant Daisy Creations because it's more all-encompassing, quirky, and fun, and there is NOT another crocheter/crafter with the name ;) Plus, there's this:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OiYMKCseJMo/UymcMoq-K1I/AAAAAAAAAcs/CUKlhnhmibQ/s1600/033wm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OiYMKCseJMo/UymcMoq-K1I/AAAAAAAAAcs/CUKlhnhmibQ/s1600/033wm.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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I had purchased a gerbera daisy at the grocery store the other day to play with my camera. It seemed like providence that when I moved aside the biggest, most dominant bloom, I found this adorable bloom underneath. </div>
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So now, we're going to talk about yarn ;)<br />
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Yarn- The thin strands of fiber twisted together to form a workable material. Yarn can be made of just about anything, more on that below<br />
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<br />TYPES AND COMPOSITIONS:</h2>
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<li>Wool - <span style="font-weight: normal;">Outside the US, wool is what they call yarn, regardless of composition. In the US, wool usually refers to a yarn made of wool. 100% wool will felt when machine washed, or even washed roughly by hand. If you want a non-feltable wool yarn to work with, look for the word superwash on the label, this usually(NOT ALWAYS) means that it will not felt. </span></li>
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<li><b>Acrylic</b> - This is a very popular type of yarn, and what you can find on shelves all over the USA. Red Heart Super Saver and most Red Heart basic brands are 100% acrylic, but as always, check the label. This petroleum based fiber holds colors very nicely and therefore has the largest color selections. Also, I've never heard of a single person having an allergic reaction to acrylic yarn- the dyes, yes, but the yarn itself, no. </li>
<li><b>Reflective</b>- This is a new and quite popular type of yarn. Red Heart Reflective is the main one I've had access to, but there are several other companies that have jumped on the reflective bandwagon. This is usually an acrylic based yarn that has a single strand of a very light reflective fiber in it. It looks like normal yarn(and the RH is suprisingly warm, I used it for an earwarmer and have no complaints) in regular light, but add a flash to your camera and that strand lights up like fiberoptics. It's pretty neat.<br />
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<li><b>Frill Yarn</b>- aka Sashay, Starbella, Ruffle- This is a super bulky type of yarn that looks like a ribbon while on the skein, but you fluff it and it becomes a light and airy lace type that makes some excellent additions to hems or the pretty ruffle scarfs that are everywhere these days. The regular size is about 3-4 inches when fluffed, and there's a new mini frill yarn that a couple of companies have recently started manufacturing that only goes to about 2 inches when fluffed. </li>
<li><b>Cotton yarn</b>- this yarn is made of 100% cotton fibers. It's excellent for kitchen hotpads(use a small hook and stitch, or you'll be burned every time) because it has a higher heat threshold than acrylic and won't melt. It will burn if exposed to flame, but it doesn't melt like acrylic can if you're taking a hot pan out of the oven. </li>
<li><b>Animal Fibers</b> - there are a thousand different variations of yarn out there, blends, etc. There's angora yarn, alpaca yarn, and more, and any blend of these can be spun together and make a workable yarn. Natural fibers from animals can be hard if not impossible to dye, so these are the types of yarns that are all shades of brown, white and golden colors found on the animals. Some will felt, some will not. There's way to many to list here, so all I can say is do your research.</li>
<li> <b>Manufactured fibers</b> - the most used types of man made fibers are nylon and polyester, and there's also some elastic blends that are used for certain types of projects. </li>
<li><b>Plarn </b>- sound like some sort of ooze, doesn't it? It's not. It's actually plastic yarn shortened to plarn. You can make it by very carefully and uniformly cutting up your old grocery store bags into long strips and using it like a bulky or super bulky yarn. It's extremely water repellent and makes great mats or beach bags, I've even heard of a small movement where they use plarn to crochet sleeping mats for homeless people. </li>
<li><b>Tarn</b> - Same deal as plarn, except it's made with old t-shirts cut up and allowed to curl into a very soft and thick yarn as you make. There are a variety of tutorials out there but I haven't the time or the willingness to do that myself right now. </li>
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YARN SIZES:</h2>
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There are two types of sizing. There's regular yarn, which, the larger the number, the bigger the yarn, it's done by weight and wraps per inch. To test an unlabeled yarn size, you get a ruler and wrap yarn around it without pulling it too taunt or leaving it too loose. I'll do another post eventually on testing yarn composition and determining size. Today we're speaking in general. </div>
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Then there is the thread, where the the larger the number, the smaller the yarn. Thread is usually not referred to as yarn, but tecnically, it is. </div>
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Regular Yarn sizing:</h3>
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There is a little icon on almost all yarn sold in the US. It looks like this:</div>
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This picture is from the skein of RH reflective shown above ;) </div>
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<li>0 - Lace </li>
<li>1 - Super Fine </li>
<li>2 - Fine</li>
<li>3 - Light</li>
<li>4 - Medium</li>
<li>5 - Bulky</li>
<li>6 - Super Bulky</li>
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These yarns also have other names, like fingering, sport, baby, worsted, DK, Aran, Chunky, Roving to name a few. However, the general names are NOT HELD TO A STANDARD. Therefore, someone could say they need a worsted yarn and mean either a 3 or a 4. To me, baby yarn and sport weight are the same, but according to others, baby yarn is a size 2, and sport is a size 3. So it's better to use the names as listed on the icon, especially if you're a pattern designer.<br />
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Thread sizing:</h3>
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Thread sizing is a bit easier, and there's no handy icon. The label will simply say "Size 10" and whatever type of thread it is- it commonly appears in nylon, polyester, mercerized(shiny) cotton and regular cotton. Size 3(I've never seen a size 1, that doesn't mean it doesn't exist, somewhere, but in the USA it starts with 3 as far as I know) is the largest. Size 10 is the most common size. Size 20 is even thinner, and size 30 basically looks like sewing thread to me. I usually like to stick with size 3 for items like purses or crocheting with soda tabs, and size 10 for my thread doilies. Of course, I'll make a doily in medium yarn as well, because that's what my grandma did after she couldn't see the thread anymore ;) In fact, I'll share a throw back Thursday picture right here <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Just look at that huge and gorgeous doily! This was taken, oh, about 25 years ago. (And boy, my son really does look like me lol) Please forgive me the perm. I had to listen to my mama too, just like everyone else. </div>
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COLORWAYS:</h2>
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<li><b>Solids</b> - The yarn is all one color throughout</li>
<li><b>Varigated</b> - The yarn is several colors, dyed in short sections that don't always line up well.</li>
<li><b>Self-striping</b> - The yarn is dyed in a few colors, in large increments that create a gentle flow of colors</li>
<li><b>Art yarn</b> - The yarn in this category usually is handmade or has an odd color pattern that doesn't fit into other categories. Some of LB's Homespun has this weird effect, it's a combination of a solid and a self striping that goes into darker shades of the same color and back again. </li>
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An important note on DYE LOTS. Some yarns have DYE LOTS. That means that all the yarn with the same lot was dyed in the same batch of dye and will match each other exactly. Always buy enough of the same dye lot to complete a project or be prepared because the blue on dye lot 123 will not match the dye lot on 184, even if they look the same. Some yarns don't need dye lots because the manufacturers have perfected the recipe of dye they use to color. Red Heart Super Saver no longer has dye lots, but if you find some antique yarn, you'll see that they used to as well. </div>
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So anyways, there's some more information on yarns for you to peruse. Enjoy and be Happy, Hookers! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-83670509049795546592014-03-13T19:10:00.001-07:002014-03-13T19:10:32.237-07:00Technical Thursday: 3 quick sizing reference links Ack! Sorry, I'm late, I'm late! For a very important date(with my bathtub and a new bottle of bubble bath, lol)<br />
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So yesterday, my computer died a painful death by Vulcan. *Insert geeky fist pump here* Just as the storm rolled in I realized I would not be able to rescue it, or my pictures I had saved for future tuts. Not right now anyways.<br />
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And today, I got the best package EVER in the mail.<br />
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So I gave the point and shoot to the girl child- it made her extremely happy</div>
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And then I was blinded by the snow glare. But it's supposed to be 50 here tommorrow and hopefully it'll go away. I'm working on a shawl with some unforgettable I picked up during the last work run. I tried to put my new microwave stand together only to realize one of the panels has a gouge in it, so I've got to wait for a replacement. I've sold a bunch of stuff this week too, so needless to say, it's been crazy busy week, and especially day, here at Creekside.</div>
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So here's a few links to some of my favorite sizing charts. </div>
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Almost everyone has been to Bev's- a quick link is <a href="http://www.bevscountrycottage.com/size-chart.html">HERE</a></div>
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Going to do the measuring yourself? <a href="http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html">HERE</a> is a how-to measure guide </div>
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<a href="http://www.planetshoup.com/easy/tips/afghsize.shtml">HERE</a> is a handy guide on sizing blankets</div>
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Okay hookers, that's about it today, very short and sweet. I don't want to lose my bubbles, and since I am starting from scratch, I just wanted to give ya'll something useful in the meantime. ;) </div>
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Happy Hookin ya'll! </div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-4665186396753685422014-03-06T00:00:00.000-08:002014-03-06T00:00:04.958-08:00Technical Thursday: Making AmigurumiHello Hookers!<br />
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Today I thought I'd go over some tips when making an amigurumi.<br />
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Amigurumi: the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting plushies/stuffed animals/dolls.<br />
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This is the current way we refer to plush creature making, you'll also occasionally hear ami, plushie, stuffie, stuffed animal, etc. This post has some helpful hints and tips.<br />
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Making the Ami</h2>
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There are two truly basic components to making amis- the mastery of the magic circle and an ability to work in spirals. For a how to on the magic circle, you can search out a tutorial or check out mine <a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-magic-circle-tutorial.html">here.</a> </div>
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Working in spirals can seem intimidating, but it's the same as working a circle with the exception of the join. There isn't one. </div>
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<b>USE A STITCH MARKER.</b> This is important so you know when to stop counting a row and start on the next one. You can use a conventional marker, or even a scrap of yarn works nicely too, especially if you just weave it in and out on the next row- then when you're done, a simple tug and it comes out cleanly. Use more than one or the yarn so you can leave it in place for a few rounds, just in case you need to go back and redo a few rows. </div>
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<b>READ THE ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE BEGINNING!</b> Pay special attention to the finishing section- sometimes you can save yourself a lot of frustration and counting if you see a note along the lines of "On the head, place one eye in a spot here, and then count over 9 spots and place the second eye. A little forethought and you can pop a scrap of yarn in the stitch as you make it and not need to count when you're ready to put the head together.</div>
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<b>USE PROPER HOOK SIZE! </b>As a general rule, you want to go 2 sizes smaller than the recommended hook size- so for a worsted weight(4) yarn, I've found a F hook works best. This makes the fabric you produce thicker and sturdier. You can use any size of yarn/thread to successfully make amis, but you have to use the proper hook for that size to get good results.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPOIhvQEoKc/UxCeKG17rsI/AAAAAAAAAbk/paYJtCFc7aA/s1600/morkmindy1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BPOIhvQEoKc/UxCeKG17rsI/AAAAAAAAAbk/paYJtCFc7aA/s1600/morkmindy1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>DON'T BE CHEAP! </b>Use a decent quality yarn and other materials. The difference shows. Red Heart Super Saver is GREAT for amis, providing both a large selection of colors and durability. I've used Caron simply soft as well, and while it provides a nice sheen to the finished project, it's a pain in the rear to work with a smaller hook. <b>I DO NOT RECOMMEND USING A FUN FUR TYPE YARN UNTIL YOU ARE SERIOUSLY EXPERIENCED AT MAKING AMIS.</b> </div>
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<b>USE THE EXTRAS! </b>Do purchase <b>SAFETY EYES</b>. Buttons are a choking hazard and even if it's intended for an adult, there are often children/grandchildren that are indulged when they want to play. Lacking that, embroider them on. Use a little liquid stitch(On a side note, do NOT buy the bottle of LS with a twist top, get the tube- the bottle leaks and dries out) when weaving in your ends. A <b>METAL</b> sewing needle is a must, the blue plastic ones bend and break. I've actually managed to snap off the ends of a couple of metal ones while sewing an ami. Find a local source of cheap nylon stockings, like the $0.33 cent knee highs that come in little plastic capsules in my local wal-mart hoisery department. Use them to line the ami before stuffing to stop the fiberfil from working it's way back out. Use new fiberfil if you can, it's fine to recycle old pillows/animals, but at the same time, there are dust mites and dead skin cells that work their way into the fluff over time. Purchase some <b>POLY PELLETS</b> if you're making something that needs a little weight. You can create an easy weight sack by pouring some into the leftover parts of your nylons and tying a knot in it(and a little bit of liquid stitch around the knot for security purposes)</div>
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<b>KNOW YOUR STITCHES! </b>Again, you should know all the stitches used in the pattern. Most amis are worked in single crochet(sc) and have increases (2sc in next stitch) and decreases(pull up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook). Some will use taller stitches for texture or shaping. </div>
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<b>PRACTICE!</b> Make some hacky sacks first. They are small balls that are filled with beans/pellets and will help you understand the concepts and get used to decreasing while working with a stuffed item.</div>
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<b>SEW ON BEFORE CLOSING!</b> With the exception of things like arms and legs, or something that needs to be added after stuffing for proper positioning, you should add other things before you stuff. I sewed the eyes on my zombie lab dudes and embroidered the mouth once I was about 6 rows past where I wanted them so they'd be firmly in place when I stuffed. This allowed me to work both sides of the fabric and ensure a close fit, as well as stopping me from stretching out the fabric more than I should or ending up with a large loop of sewing thread knotted and messy and requiring me to pull the whole thing off and try again. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U0QoaveMg1g/UxCeKGR05UI/AAAAAAAAAbo/2KyhbHEmAnU/s1600/zominionmort1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U0QoaveMg1g/UxCeKGR05UI/AAAAAAAAAbo/2KyhbHEmAnU/s1600/zominionmort1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>BE AWARE OF THE NATURE OF SPIRALS! </b>When doing color changes in a proper spiral, there will be uneven edges. I covered the zig zag of my lab dudes eye strap by sewing the eye over the join. For his pants, and needing a flat join, I had to slip stitch and tie off, then start a new row, and it's still noticable, just not as much. I covered the join with the overall flap. </div>
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<b>SMALL HOOKS AND SMALL STITCHES CAN HURT!</b> Amis require an even, tight tension. This can and will irritate your wrist/hand/fingers. Take frequent breaks, just be sure to mark where you stopped on the pattern and try to stop at the end of a round. </div>
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<b>HAIR IS A PAIN!</b> There's nothing more time consuming than adding hair to an ami. There will be gaps, and bumps if you add it "latch hook" style by pulling up a loop and then pulling both ends through the loop. It's completely do-able, but very time consuming. </div>
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Amis are fun and wonderful keepsakes for people. You can do it, just don't expect perfection right from the start- it's a rare occurence. I think I've gotten it all covered in a basic manner, but if I've forgotten something, let me know and I'll add it :) </div>
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Stay Happy, my hooker friends. </div>
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P.S- I'm anxiously awaiting my "Yarn Whisperer" hoodie in the mail ;) I also paint occasionally, and got permission from the Ninja Hooker designer to use the ninja. She's so cute! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-37307007873303788402014-02-27T00:00:00.000-08:002014-02-27T00:00:15.562-08:00Technical Thursday: Awesome Cat Sack Hat FREE pattern!Everything is awesome here at Creekside Crochet this week. So I decided to make up a pattern for my daughter's crazy hat day tommorrow and share it with you all. She loves cats and unicorns and all that stuff(she must get it from her father, I prefer skulls and skeletons hehe)<br />
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Now this pattern is ranked just between easy and intermediate- it requires some knowledge of working amigurumi in spirals. As well as front post/back post and working in the round.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x464qq1Nj88/Uw41Gu3efXI/AAAAAAAAAaY/gHXBT9gqyLo/s1600/1979554_796782633668755_194934227_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x464qq1Nj88/Uw41Gu3efXI/AAAAAAAAAaY/gHXBT9gqyLo/s1600/1979554_796782633668755_194934227_n.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h2>
The AWESOME Cat Sack Hat</h2>
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<div>
You need the following colors in a worsted weight- I used Red Heart Super Saver</div>
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White</div>
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Petal pink</div>
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Shocking pink</div>
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Black</div>
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Aruba Sea</div>
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J(6mm) Hook</div>
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Needle for sewing</div>
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<h4>
HAT:</h4>
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Round 1:With white, do a chainless HDC Foundation of 64 stitches. </div>
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Round 2: Ch 1, HDC in same stitch(counts as first BPHDC). FPHDC in next, alternate around, join in Ch1(32 FPDC/32 BPHDC)</div>
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Round 3: Ch 1, BPHDC around both Ch1 and the first BPHDC of the last round. FPHDC around next front post, BPHDC around next back post. Repeat around, join in ch 1(32 FPHDC/32 BPHDC)</div>
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Round 4: Repeat round 3, tie off when finished. </div>
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Round 5: With Petal Pink, join in any stitch and ch 1, HDC in same stitch. HDC around, join in ch 1.</div>
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Round 6: Ch 1, HDC in same stitch. HDC around. Join in Ch 1.(64 HDC)</div>
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Round 7-19: Repeat Round 6</div>
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Round 20: Repeat Round 6, tie off and weave in ends(We'll sew with a doubled string of yarn for strength and tension)</div>
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Set Hat Aside<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3BezIphk4g/Uw41Iz2TmvI/AAAAAAAAAaw/3mfXWFxrHN0/s1600/20140226_115247.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g3BezIphk4g/Uw41Iz2TmvI/AAAAAAAAAaw/3mfXWFxrHN0/s1600/20140226_115247.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Horn: (Make 1)</h3>
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We are working in spirals, DO NOT JOIN!</div>
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With Aruba Sea and the J hook:</div>
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Round 1: Magic Circle, 6 SC in circle. (6)</div>
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Round 2: 1 SC in next, 2 SC in next. Repeat 3 times(9)</div>
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Round 3-4: SC around. (9)</div>
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Round 5: SC in next 2, 2 SC in next. Repeat 3 times(12)</div>
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Round 6-7: SC around. (12) </div>
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Round 8: SC in next 3, 2 SC in next. Repeat 3 times(15)</div>
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Round 9-14: SC around (15)</div>
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Round 15: SC in next 4, 2 SC in next. Repeat 3 times(18)</div>
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Round 16-19: SC around (18)</div>
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Slip stitch into next stitch, press flat and slip stitch through 2 layers 4 or 5 times before tying off. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yklkIUuSXwM/Uw41IrxdxtI/AAAAAAAAAa4/QAVIfdCVUh8/s1600/20140226_115204.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yklkIUuSXwM/Uw41IrxdxtI/AAAAAAAAAa4/QAVIfdCVUh8/s1600/20140226_115204.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Ears: (Make 2)</h3>
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DO NOT JOIN! (This section is hard to write out, so bear with me- I'm going to write it as I did it)</div>
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With Shocking Pink and J hook:</div>
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CH 6. We will be working BOTH SIDES of the chain, one end has no increases, while the other increases to give us the desired shape. </div>
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Round 1: SC in 2nd ch from hook and in the next 4 stitches. Turn your chain and place a SC directly opposite the last one made to work up the other side of the chain, and in the next 4 ch stitches. 4 SC in the last remaining stitch. (9 SC, 4 in one)</div>
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Round 2: 1 sc x 14</div>
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Round 3: 1 sc x 11, 2 sc in next 2</div>
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Round 4: 1 sc x 17</div>
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Round 5: 1 sc x 13, 2 HDC in next 2</div>
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Round 6: 1 sc x 19</div>
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Round 7: 1 sc x 14, 2 HDC in next 3</div>
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Round 8: 1 sc x 22</div>
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Round 9 and 10: Repeat Round 8. Sl st in next. Flatten the ear and working through both layers, slip stitch the bottom shut for a few stitches.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H9iOa57aQRs/Uw41I8R_u1I/AAAAAAAAAas/yyw-YBhCEpc/s1600/20140226_115145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H9iOa57aQRs/Uw41I8R_u1I/AAAAAAAAAas/yyw-YBhCEpc/s1600/20140226_115145.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Eyes: (Make 2)</h3>
We WILL be joining, and turning. Pay attention!<br />
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<b>With Black</b><br />
1: Magic Circle, 6 sc(6) Sl st into 1st stitch to join<br />
2: Ch 1, 2 HDC in each stitch around(12) sl st into 1st HDC to join<br />
3: Ch 1, HDC in next, 2 HDC in next stitch. Repeat 6 times, tie off black, weave in end (18)<br />
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<b>With ARUBA SEA</b><br />
4: Pull up a loop in any stitch and slip stitch into the next 2 stitches. 2 sc in next, sc in 2, 2 sc in next, sc in 2, 2 sc in next, 2 slip stitches. Ch 1 and <b>TURN</b> (14)<br />
5: Sk 1st slip stitch, slip stitch in 2nd stitch and next 2 stitches. 2 sc in next, HDC in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next 4, working around both of the last 2 rows(black and aruba slip stitches). Tie off, weave end into same color. (14)<br />
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<b>With WHITE</b><br />
6. With the right side facing you, pull up a loop in the same black stitch you started the Aruba Sea. SC in next 4, 2 Sc in next sc in next 4, 2 sc, sc in next 4, slip stitch into the black on the other side. (18 sc, 1 sl st) <b>TURN</b><br />
7. Ch 1, skip next sl st, sc in next 3, HDC in next 2, 2 HDC in next stitch, hdc in next 5, 2hdc in next stitch, sc in next 3, sl st. Tie Off, weave in ends<br />
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With BLACK:<br />
8. Join in any stitch. SC in next 5, 2 sc in next. Repeat around. Join, leave long tail for sewing.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LUov0-9WJCg/Uw41LIrshXI/AAAAAAAAAbM/jKjB8nLjfY4/s1600/finishedeye.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LUov0-9WJCg/Uw41LIrshXI/AAAAAAAAAbM/jKjB8nLjfY4/s1600/finishedeye.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<h2>
FINISHING</h2>
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Use a doubled strand of petal pink(Put it on the needle and tie the ends together, it'll be a big loop) and use that to sew the ears and horn in place. Sew the first ear, then count how many stitches you used to do so and count in from the other side, use a marker. Then center your horn in the space between and sew it in, then sew in the other ear. </div>
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Attach the eyes, and when you reach a good spot for some eyelashes for that girly feel, put them on there. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTA69TbQdOg/Uw41K4ND9xI/AAAAAAAAAbI/fgC7RGVpKlM/s1600/20140226_131141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FTA69TbQdOg/Uw41K4ND9xI/AAAAAAAAAbI/fgC7RGVpKlM/s1600/20140226_131141.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Stay Happy, Hookers!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-75246087604905595252014-02-19T19:31:00.001-08:002014-02-19T19:31:57.012-08:00Instead of our regularly scheduled programPlease allow me to act all crazy weird. I'm wired. Why?<br />
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BECAUSE I DID IT!</h2>
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I finished this beast of a blanket. 6 weeks and 4857 yards of Homespun. Somewhere around 7 by 9 feet of C2C done in wildfire and pearls</div>
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So I'm going to go do a happy dance and allow myself a few days to just wow it. Have a great week! </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hoHkYienjzA/UwV2jb5xMVI/AAAAAAAAAZk/qxXFd-WQ4CI/s1600/c2cwildfirepearl1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hoHkYienjzA/UwV2jb5xMVI/AAAAAAAAAZk/qxXFd-WQ4CI/s1600/c2cwildfirepearl1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_53BEsYbvEs/UwV2l-nnJhI/AAAAAAAAAaE/PhQmlUG3OV4/s1600/c2cwildfirepearlwrappers1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_53BEsYbvEs/UwV2l-nnJhI/AAAAAAAAAaE/PhQmlUG3OV4/s1600/c2cwildfirepearlwrappers1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-25941926268548067502014-02-13T00:00:00.000-08:002014-02-13T00:00:02.090-08:00Technical Thursday: Hearts on ParadeGood morning hookers!<br />
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I'm making the effort to get back on track this week. We are having a crazy week yet again here at Creekside. The IRS paid our tax return to a state that claimed we owed back child support for a child that was adopted by her stepfather last spring, charging us over a thousand dollars a month for each month AFTER the adoption was completed. (No good deed goes unpunished- it was initiated by the child's mother for legal reasons). So my camera is on hold for now :/<br />
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And my hot water pipe is frozen, it's only -13 outside.<br />
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So anyways, I'm in the mood for a little something cheery and thought I'd do a free heart pattern roundup. I've made some of these, but not all, and just figured I'd put some together to lift my spirits.<br />
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1. My favorite doily- The Hearts Desire Doily- pattern available <a href="http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/hearts-desire-doily">here</a> by Red Heart/Coats and Clark. I went a little insane last year with them, because they're so quick and easy.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Li_TRcHStoc/UvuFF96feZI/AAAAAAAAAY4/NkMXW6ftXcs/s1600/HDdoilys2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Li_TRcHStoc/UvuFF96feZI/AAAAAAAAAY4/NkMXW6ftXcs/s1600/HDdoilys2013.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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2. My favorite stand alone square, pattern by SmoothFox on Ravelry <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/christmas-cheer-heart">here</a></div>
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I made this quick little apron for a swap I was in last year. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sCDTu_ve_PM/UvuFIbNIuAI/AAAAAAAAAZA/L9nGhL4hpeA/s1600/heartapron2013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sCDTu_ve_PM/UvuFIbNIuAI/AAAAAAAAAZA/L9nGhL4hpeA/s1600/heartapron2013.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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3. A most adorable heart rose applique is available <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rosy-heart">here</a>, written by Mia's Heartfelt Hands on ravelry. </div>
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4. Need something quick and easy to make for a child? Try this most cute heart coin purse, pattern by I'm hooked 25 and found on their blog <a href="http://imhooked25.blogspot.mx/2014/02/crochet-heart-coin-purse-pattern.html">here</a></div>
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5. Coffee cozy with a heart applique? Cute and functional- find it <a href="http://thisninjacreates.wordpress.com/2014/02/11/oatmeal-coffee-cozy-with-teal-heart/">here</a> on the This ninja creates blog. </div>
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6. A heart shaped picture frame? Love it! I had a dreamcatcher in a heavily starched one of these as I was growing up, I LOVED it! Pattern is by Helen Free and available <a href="http://www.enfys.me.uk/english/free-patterns/free-heart-frame.htm">here</a> in both UK and US terms ;) </div>
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7. I can't forget about the Danish Heart that keeps appearing in my newsfeed- it's adorable, and available <a href="http://alipyper.com/2012/12/03/free-danish-heart-crochet-pattern/">here</a>, written by the talented Alipyper</div>
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8. ADORABLE baby legwarmers(and really, what's cuter than a baby wearing legwarmers?) from Dearest Debi's blog <a href="http://dearestdebi.com/crochet-sweet-hearts-leg-warmers">here</a></div>
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9. Sachets never go out of style- There's a quick one at Red Heart <a href="http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/sweet-heart-sachet">here</a></div>
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10. A scarf you say? Okay- how fun is this one? Available <a href="http://makezine.com/craft/project_crochet_heart_scarf/">here</a> , written by Alice Merlino</div>
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11. Need a kid sized bag so they can carry their valentines around? Try this one <a href="http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/here%E2%80%99s-my-heart-gift-bag">here</a> , written by Andee Graves and published on Red Heart's website. </div>
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12. And last, but not least, we need a small basket of some sort- so give this Petal to Picot's pattern a try <a href="http://www.petalstopicots.com/2012/02/hugs-and-kisses-heart-basket-crochet-pattern/">here</a></div>
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An even dozen seems like a good number to me, should keep you busy for at least a little while. </div>
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Love, live and laugh my hooker friends, and have a Happy Valentine's Day :) </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-35856129297776893152014-02-06T09:22:00.000-08:002014-02-08T09:23:42.352-08:00Technical Thursday: C2C Color changesApologies! I'm late, again :/ My mother was in the hospital this week and was diagnosed with COPD, so I was understandably a bit distracted.<br />
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Anyways, here it is- my favorite method of color changing while doing c2c. You know how to size and shape it, and how to do increase and decrease stitches.<br />
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First up, we've finished color A. There are 2 different types of color change, for increase and deacrease stitches. Remember, I use liquid stitch to help me here, I find it helps me save on yarn to not have to leave 6 to 8 inches to weave in properly and I've yet to have anything I put liquid stitch on pull apart under normal use.<br />
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To INCREASE color change: First, take your hook and work it through the last loop made as well as the top loop of the inside of the last dc(the 2nd pull up a loop motion). Note the I already cut color A and pulled it through.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g4XhoBPyemw/UtLLO12QFrI/AAAAAAAAAU8/VwYQdikoMtU/s1600/20140109_190531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g4XhoBPyemw/UtLLO12QFrI/AAAAAAAAAU8/VwYQdikoMtU/s1600/20140109_190531.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Now, I'm going to pull up a loop of color B and CHAIN 6 OVER BOTH MY WORKING YARN AND THE TAIL- I generally try for 2 or 3 chain stitches before I run out of tail. I will go back later and apply a bead of liquid stitch to the ends after I'm finished with the entire project(in case of frogging).<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bO2gUbXB_74/UtLLPoKn92I/AAAAAAAAAVI/D-j6QXdXs30/s1600/20140109_190759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bO2gUbXB_74/UtLLPoKn92I/AAAAAAAAAVI/D-j6QXdXs30/s1600/20140109_190759.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then I stop and weave in the tail of color A and return to the end of the chain. I turn and do my 3dc in the 1st 3 chains, working of the tail of color B as well. Slip stitch over the tail of color A and continue your row. </div>
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To DECREASE color change. Tie off color A, and insert your hook in the space between the chain and first dc(the space where you slip stitch to. Chaining over BOTH the working yarn and your tail, chain 3 of color B then make the rest of your block. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oAkiun3GMDA/UvZikXe_5DI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/-ELTgIXx6Rg/s1600/20140202_175122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oAkiun3GMDA/UvZikXe_5DI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/-ELTgIXx6Rg/s1600/20140202_175122.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
It can look quite messy(and homespun frays on the ends, so forgive the fluff.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3V9vwrHe-8/UvZikUddD3I/AAAAAAAAAYc/AgFMjUp9O60/s1600/20140202_175246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3V9vwrHe-8/UvZikUddD3I/AAAAAAAAAYc/AgFMjUp9O60/s1600/20140202_175246.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHVMPCoBOWM/UvZijxQWs9I/AAAAAAAAAYM/i6Q5ilfYOXw/s1600/20140202_175414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qHVMPCoBOWM/UvZijxQWs9I/AAAAAAAAAYM/i6Q5ilfYOXw/s1600/20140202_175414.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Remember, I'll be coming back when I'm done and using some fabric glue, then trimming the fluff off when I'm done. I'm working a rectangle with a 6/3 color repeat, so when I get to the side I'm increasing, I'll just do a normal increase on one side, and a decrease on the other. This is what the increase looks like.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6sGASdwhNMA/UvZil55mpKI/AAAAAAAAAYs/L8B4z8Ia4ZA/s1600/20140202_184520-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6sGASdwhNMA/UvZil55mpKI/AAAAAAAAAYs/L8B4z8Ia4ZA/s1600/20140202_184520-1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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I'll come back and clean this up, in a month or two, so leave a comment with any questions and I'll try to include them. 8 days until I order my camera, and a learning curve, and I'll be redoing pictures for most everything, but I wanted to get this out there because I know some people have been waiting for it. </div>
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Happy Hooking! </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-29547796451257618292014-01-31T18:30:00.002-08:002014-01-31T18:30:46.662-08:00Technical Thursday: Quick LinksSo this week has been crazy cold again and everyone's sick. I got a wonderful stomach flu too :/ So this week I'm slacking and just doing quick links to my other posts ;)<br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-liquid-stitch-cheat.html">Liquid Stitch "Cheat"</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-increasing-circle.html">Increasing a Circle</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/free-pattern-nubby-face-pad.html">Nubby Face Pad pattern</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-magic-circle-tutorial.html">Magic Circle Tutorial </a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-pattern-testing.html">Pattern Testing Ettique</a>te<br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/free-patten-lovey-dovey-baby-toy-blanket.html">Lovey Dovey Pattern </a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/09/technial-tuesday-blocking-without-iron.html">Blocking without an iron </a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/09/technical-tuesday-crochet-terms-part-1.html">Common Crochet Terms(Part 1)</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/10/technical-tuesday-these-hooks-aint-for.html">Other uses for your hooks </a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/11/grannys-favorite-reversible-stocking.html">Granny's Favorite Stocking Pattern</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2013/12/technical-thursday-toilet-paper-tube.html">Paper Tube Pom Poms</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-thursday-hooking-with-ruffle.html">Working with Ruffle Yarn & 1 skein scarf how to</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-thursday-hints-on-reading.html">How to read a written pattern</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-thursday-c2c-basics.html">Corner to Corner(C2C) basics</a><br />
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<a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2014/01/technical-thursday-c2c-sizing-and-shape.html">C2C Sizing and Shape</a><br />
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Stay Happy, Hookers!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-35128898800223923482014-01-23T00:00:00.000-08:002014-01-23T00:00:14.588-08:00Technical Thursday: C2C Sizing and shape. How are you, hookers? Hope you're well. It's been a crazy busy week here creekside, with a fresh wave of subarctic temperatures, a MIL birthday, new furniture and our troop started meeting again :)<br />
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So this week, we'll be discussing the sizing and shape from your C2C project. Once I can hold a hook again and get back to work on my afghan(hammer, cheap screwdriver and speed work with an unpadded F hook have left me unable to hold a hook right this moment), I'll get the color change technique up and running.<br />
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So there are 3 types of "blocks" you can do with your C2C.<br />
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1. <b>Increase- </b><span style="font-weight: normal;">Chain 6, turn and put a DC in the 4th, 5th, and 6th chain from the hook. </span></h4>
<b>2. Decrease- </b>Slip stitch across the top of the most recently completed block, Ch 3, 3 DC in the same space<br />
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<b>3. Interior- </b>Ch 3, 3 DC in same space, slip stitch into next space.<br />
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So those are pretty simple, correct? We've already done our basics. Now you want to make it to the proper size.<br />
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First off, the basic shape is a square. You simply do increases on both ends until a flat side is the size you want it to be, like so:<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ6JEfvk_co/UtLLS0UNCTI/AAAAAAAAAVo/laWkke3wX2E/s1600/20140109_191732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KQ6JEfvk_co/UtLLS0UNCTI/AAAAAAAAAVo/laWkke3wX2E/s1600/20140109_191732.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Please note that 1, the picture is sideways(I still haven't figured out how to fix orientation on here yet) and 2, I always put the tail where I started on the left hand side closet to me when I measure. That is just my personal preference. As you work on your C2C, you noticed the characteristic triangle shape, with 2 straight sides and the wavy working edge. You can measure on either flat side for our purposes. </div>
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For a Square shape, once one of your straight edges has reached the size you want it to be, you simply decrease on both sides until you are done. </div>
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Now comes the more difficult rectangle. Now, you're going to pick a straight edge to be the bottom(A). So when you get to that corner, you're going to do a decrease block with the slip stitch up the recently completed box, and work interior blocks until you get to the other side. On that side(B), you're going to do an increase block, then turn and continue back towards the bottom corner. Complete as many rows as it takes, taking care to increase on the same side as you did previously, and decrease on the same side(C-though I didn't put it on my sketch). So then you have your bottom edge, and a side edge. Once your side edge on the increase side is the size you want it to be, you will switch to doing a decrease on both sides. </div>
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I've prepared (embarrassingly) simple sketches showing the progress of a rectangle C2C. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDfmQT3vrj8/Ut8uhpU_kYI/AAAAAAAAAXE/Q8CFapvGcNU/s1600/c2csketch1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HDfmQT3vrj8/Ut8uhpU_kYI/AAAAAAAAAXE/Q8CFapvGcNU/s1600/c2csketch1.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a></div>
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Remember, Side A is the BOTTOM edge. It is the size I want it to be. Let's call them 1" blocks, so it's 4". So every time I get to the end of a row on side C(again, that'd be the right side of the sketch, D will be the top of our project), I will DECREASE- which adds no more blocks along side A. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vr6KjMkuMh4/Ut8uhyhbS1I/AAAAAAAAAXc/5jy13_lyfgA/s1600/c2csketch2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Vr6KjMkuMh4/Ut8uhyhbS1I/AAAAAAAAAXc/5jy13_lyfgA/s1600/c2csketch2.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a></div>
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So once I get back to side B, I'm going to INCREASE which makes my project start to take a rectangle shape. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--nIH_YhwUHc/Ut8uhzP_LaI/AAAAAAAAAXY/UE8DpJhpLi0/s1600/c2csketch3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--nIH_YhwUHc/Ut8uhzP_LaI/AAAAAAAAAXY/UE8DpJhpLi0/s1600/c2csketch3.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a></div>
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And again, I will Decrease on side C, and Increase on side B. </div>
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Now, side B is my desired 6" tall. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_UjyDhv070/Ut8uiukxo_I/AAAAAAAAAXo/4zKmTwWGjxU/s1600/c2csketch4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C_UjyDhv070/Ut8uiukxo_I/AAAAAAAAAXo/4zKmTwWGjxU/s1600/c2csketch4.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a></div>
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So now I decrease on both sides(C and D). </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kMTNavvwg0c/Ut8uilInsMI/AAAAAAAAAXg/4cqewMpNJMo/s1600/c2csketch5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kMTNavvwg0c/Ut8uilInsMI/AAAAAAAAAXg/4cqewMpNJMo/s1600/c2csketch5.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a></div>
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And finally, I've reached the corner again. And it's a rectangle! Practice with a scarf, or if you have a tablet, you can make a quick practice tablet holder by making side A just as wide as your tablet, and side B twice as long, then fold it in half and sc or slip stitch the sides together. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERRwJyxoVUE/Uh-f9dSM0UI/AAAAAAAAAK8/UyqjHurd1Ag/s1600/kindlekooziec2c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERRwJyxoVUE/Uh-f9dSM0UI/AAAAAAAAAK8/UyqjHurd1Ag/s1600/kindlekooziec2c.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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^That's my kindle sleeve, made with a sport weight yarn and G hook. </div>
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Thanks for reading :) And have a happy hooking day! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-70652622125965991092014-01-16T00:00:00.000-08:002014-01-16T00:00:15.627-08:00Technical Thursday: C2C basics Hello Hookers!<br />
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Welcome to TT ;) This week, we're beginning a mini series on C2C, aka Corner to corner- sometimes referred to as a diagonal box stitch and even called a slanted shell stitch.<br />
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Confused yet?<br />
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Don't be. C2C is actually an extremely simple(almost too simple!) stitch pattern to pick up. Can you chain 6 and 3, slip stitch and make a DC(US terminology)? If so, you can join the C2C craze.<br />
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For this tutorial series, I'm going to insist on using some liquid stitch- it's important for the almost seamless method I use to change colors. So you need yarn(any size), the appropriately sized hook for the yarn(I used a worsted cotton and an H hook as recommended by the label), scissors, and the liquid stitch(or other permanent clear fabric adhesive).<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jf5jXLjDeeE/UtLLXeaFHaI/AAAAAAAAAWY/x3olIxE0p9w/s1600/20140109_193754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jf5jXLjDeeE/UtLLXeaFHaI/AAAAAAAAAWY/x3olIxE0p9w/s1600/20140109_193754.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Today, I'll go over the very basics. For the next couple of weeks, I'll take a more in depth look at both the color change, increasing and decreasing, and how to make taller than it is wide. </div>
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Starting your C2C:</div>
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Chain 6. DC in 4th, 5th and 6th chain from hook. (Sorry, some of the pictures are sideways and it's not letting me rotate them)</div>
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After completing the 3rd DC(in the 6th chain), chain 6 again. It should look like this:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kSBGT-j8bMs/UtLLDUb-DjI/AAAAAAAAATU/Wfqs8o-dnSU/s1600/20140109_182700.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kSBGT-j8bMs/UtLLDUb-DjI/AAAAAAAAATU/Wfqs8o-dnSU/s1600/20140109_182700.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now DC in the 3 chains closest to the orignal box:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nwxcquDuRtA/UtLLDdycnPI/AAAAAAAAATY/G9q4zYmxp6g/s1600/20140109_182738.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nwxcquDuRtA/UtLLDdycnPI/AAAAAAAAATY/G9q4zYmxp6g/s1600/20140109_182738.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S_NWhG7LgSw/UtLLGU-M7JI/AAAAAAAAATs/My-1wjN30Ks/s1600/20140109_182830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S_NWhG7LgSw/UtLLGU-M7JI/AAAAAAAAATs/My-1wjN30Ks/s1600/20140109_182830.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now comes the part where people get confused(sometimes): You're going to rotate the box you just made and slip stitch between the end of the ch 6 and first DC you made in the previous box. It's the opposite corner from where your tail is:</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uZudQlq5h6c/UtLLGkOqmbI/AAAAAAAAATw/-xRZ7L2c7ME/s1600/20140109_182844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uZudQlq5h6c/UtLLGkOqmbI/AAAAAAAAATw/-xRZ7L2c7ME/s1600/20140109_182844.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Now, we're doing an increase row, so that means we need 2 boxes before we move onto the next row(for a total of 3 altogether). So we're going to chain 3 after completing the slip stitch. </div>
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Now, make 3 DCs around the same chain. Then, we're moving onto the next row, so chain 6 after the final DC:</div>
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Again, make 3 DCs in the last 3 chains. Turn, and slip stitch into the ch 3 space from the previous row. Because it's an "interior" box, you're going to Ch 3:</div>
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Just remember- interior boxes are ch 3, 3 DC in same spot, slip stitch in next ch 3 space and continue until you get to the outside edge. It will look like a triangle because we're on the increase side. When doing an outside edge, you ch 6, 3 DC in last 3 chains, turn and slip stitch. </div>
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I'm making a coaster, so I want it to be about 3.5" square. With the worsted weight yarn, that's five rows. (For more information on color change, see NEXTWEEKINSERTLINK). </div>
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So to measure, I'm going to lay my measuring tape along one of the straight outside edges and put the zero at my tail. Now we're ready to decrease. </div>
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To decrease, we're going to slip stitch across the tops of the 3 DCs in our corner box, and into the ch3 space. In the picture above, I'm also doing a color change, so I'm just going to tie on in the space I need to be in. Note that the decrease side is similar to the increase side, but instead of Ch 6, it'll be slip stitch in next 3, chain 3 before you continue.<br />
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So you've got your chain 3, now do the 3 DC in the same space. Slip stitch into the next stitch and continue across until the next to the last box. Complete the slip stitch, and instead of ch 3 to make another box, you're going to turn your work and slip stitch back across the tops of the 3 DC you just finished. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qPJ-c5rZqY0/UtLLVBU6f_I/AAAAAAAAAWA/4ofiX61j1TY/s1600/20140109_192142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qPJ-c5rZqY0/UtLLVBU6f_I/AAAAAAAAAWA/4ofiX61j1TY/s1600/20140109_192142.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ch 3, 3DC in same spot, and move on. You should be counting(When in doubt, count it out!). Because my increases stopped at 5, the first row on the decrease will be 4. Then 3. Then 2. And finally one. Please note that you will NOT be finishing off in the opposite corner from the tail.<br />
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Now, I could tie off here, but using a varigated makes my slip stitches on the decrease size more visible than I'd like, so I'm going to put a simple border on it- Ch 1, sc in same spot, then sc around, putting 1 sc on the top of each DC, or 3 across a ch 3 space. On corner squares, I'll put 2 dc across the tops or ch3 space, then 3 sc in each corner until I come around again and am able to finish off.<br />
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The SCs cover the slip stitches nicely.<br />
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And that, my hooker friends, is how you join the C2C craze ;)<br />
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Until Next week!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-7993635375111298472014-01-09T00:00:00.000-08:002014-01-09T00:00:03.772-08:00Technical Thursday: Hints on reading a patternHello hookers!<br />
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Hopefully we're all warming back up by the time this posts, it's really cold today!(Yes, I try to get this written a bit a head of time ;) )<br />
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Today, I thought we'd go over some basics and helpful hints on how to read a print pattern. Some people can watch videos and do it, I'm not one of them. I have trouble with charted patterns, but I can, and do, read printed patterns on a daily basis.<br />
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So today, we'll be using a pattern by Crochet by Jennifer called Adult Chunky Slippers- download the entire pattern <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/adult-chunky-slippers">here, on ravelry.com</a>. Visit Jen at <a href="http://www.crochetbyjennifer.com/">http://www.crochetbyjennifer.com</a> to see all of her most awesome patterns.<br />
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First, you need to decide if you want to try a pattern. Look at the difficulty level(easy). Do you have the suggested hook size(K), and the suggested yarn(Bulky, or 2 strands of worsted weight)? And then, what crochet language is it in? I can't tell you the amount of times patterns are abandoned and disparaged because someone used their US terminology to try and make a UK terminology pattern. If it's not listed on the pattern or the pattern hosting site(Jen writes in US terms), then you may have to do a little sleuthing- if they're based in the US or Canada, it's most likely US terms, if it's UK or Australia, then it's usually UK terms. But don't assume. You can also determine the terminology by looking at stitch definitions. </div>
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So, while we're looking at the beginning of the pattern, you should read through all abbreviations, and a special stitch section(if there is one). If you know how to do everything on the list in a competent manner, then you can start working on the pattern. If there's something that appears difficult, you should go find a tutorial of your choosing(in the same terminology!) and review the methodology before you begin. </div>
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Designers use different abbreviations by their own preferences, and the language is always evolving. 20 years ago, a MC meant "Main Color". Nowadays, it usually means magic circle (I've got a picture tutorial <a href="http://creeksidecrochet.blogspot.com/2012/08/technical-tuesday-magic-circle-tutorial.html">here</a>). </div>
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Jen's definitions are as follows:</div>
<i>Abbreviations Used:</i><br />
<i>st or sts - stitch or stitches</i><br />
<i>ch - chain stitch</i><br />
<i>dc - double crochet</i><br />
<i>fpdc - front post double crochet</i><br />
<i>bpdc - back post double crochet</i><br />
<i>sl st - slip stitch</i><br />
<i>rnd(s) - round(s)</i><br />
<i>sp - space</i><br />
<i>ea - each</i><br />
<i>beg - beginning</i><br />
<i>prev - previous</i><br />
<i>YO - Yarn Over</i><br />
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Pretty basic, right? The only ones that might be difficult are the front and back post dcs, so then we look down a little more and find the special stitch definitions- Jen's an awesome designer, so she provides links to tutorials:<br />
<i>Special Stitches Definitions:</i><br />
<i>Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Working from the front, YO and insert the hook from right to left</i><br />
<i>under the post of the double crochet indicated from the previous round. YO and complete the stitch as a</i><br />
<i>double crochet.</i><br />
<i>Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Working from the back, YO and insert the hook from right to left</i><br />
<i>over the post of the double crochet indicated from the previous round. YO and complete the stitch as a</i><br />
<i>double crochet.</i><br />
<i>FPDC and BPDC Video: You can find a great video for learning fpdc and bpdc here: http://</i><br />
<i>www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5hN9hNHG_U&feature=player_embedded#</i><br />
<i>Magic Ring: You can find directions for the “magic ring” here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?</i><br />
<i>v=FHYVutk2iYY. You do not have to use this method; alternate directions are also given.</i><br />
<i>Invisible Join: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsHggQGFq3A</i><br />
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So we've read all definitions, we know the stitches, now to start. Since we're making slippers for an adult, there are large size charts included in the pattern. I won't copy/paste those charts, but they're not hard to read. For our purposes, I'll be making a woman's wide width, size 8.5 (US sizes). So I'll find it on the woman's size chart and know that the slipper measurement from heel to ankle is 7 inches for all widths. Then I'll chose my width using the following directions:<br />
<br />
<i>How to choose the width:</i><br />
<i>Three different widths are given for this pattern. Most sizes will fit into regular width because</i><br />
<i>there is a lot of stretch to these slippers. However, directions for “wide” width are given, as well</i><br />
<i>as extra-wide. Men with larger shoe sizes should use the wide width. Only extremely wide</i><br />
<i>widths (EE or wider, up to EEEE) should use the extra-wide width, it is very large!</i><br />
<i>Select width and go to that section, after rnd 5, all sizes will continue on to Part 2.</i><br />
<i>Regular width: 10-11” circumference, start on page 4.</i><br />
<i>Wide width: 11-12” circumference, start on page 5.</i><br />
<i>Extra-wide width: 12-13” circumference, start on page 6.</i><br />
<i>*Note: circumference of slipper is measured on the outside, inside measurement is much smaller.</i><br />
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So I'll then scroll down to page 5. As I start reading, I see:<br />
<i>Select a size from either the first or second column of the chart (menʼs or womenʼs), this</i><br />
<i>will tell you which measurement to use from the third column after rnd 5.</i><br />
<i>Note: ʻch 2ʼ is counted in stitch count until otherwise noted. When pattern says “dc in</i><br />
<i>very next available st”, make the dc in the top of the same post that was just used for</i><br />
<i>the fpdc.</i><br />
Remember, I'm making an 8.5, so I know the measurement to use is 7".<br />
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So I've got my K hook, and my 2 strands of teal worsted weight yarn.<br />
Now, we go back to our basic order of operations. Much like math class, you do things in order. Having completed round one, I've got 12 DCs in a circle, and am ready for round 2:<br />
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<i>Rnd 2: ch 2, [fpdc around st directly below, dc in very next available st] to end of rnd,</i><br />
<i>beg ʻch 2ʼ counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ʻch 2ʼ. (24)</i><br />
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So I chain 2. Now there are brackets. The brackets tell me I should complete every instruction inside of them before trying anything else. These brackets can be interchangeable with parenthesis ( ) as well, depending on designer. So it's telling me to FPDC, then DC in the top of it, to the end of round. Going back to our lesson on making things in the round, we're putting 2 stitches into 1, 12 times. 12 x 2 is 24. So before moving onto round 3, we're going to count them. With this particular pattern, we're going to have 12 ridges, and 12 "valleys" alternating. If you've got 2 ridges side by side with no vally between them, then you need to redo round 2.<br />
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WHEN IN DOUBT, COUNT IT OUT!<br />
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Although not every designer puts a stitch count at the end of their rows/rounds, while you're learning, it's always better to do the math yourself if not provided and COUNT EACH STITCH on EVERY ROW/ROUND. This prevents the dreaded ripping out(frog- rip it, rip it) to the beginning of the pattern. </div>
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So we've got round 2 complete, and there are 24 stitches(12 valleys and 12 ridges). Time for round 3:</div>
<i><br /></i>
<i>Rnd 3: ch 2, [fpdc around next 3 sts, dc in very next available st] to end of rnd, last st</i><br />
<i>will be around ʻch 2 from prev rnd, beg ʻch 2ʼ counts as last dc, join with sl st in top of ʻch</i><br />
<i>2ʼ. (32)</i><br />
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And, repeat. Ch 2. Do the brackets. Read the entire line of instructions before beginning the round, and count your stitches. The pattern has changed now, so it'll be 3 ridges, and a valley. 24 ridges, 8 valleys= 32 stitches.<br />
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Now we get a gauge check:<br />
<i>Gauge check: Diameter of circle should measure approximately 3.75 to 4.25” here.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
So we pull out our handy dandy measuring device and lay it across the entire circle. Center it, and see if you hit gauge. If you didn't, you need to fix it. Frog it all and start over- change one thing: hook size, or tension. Some designers like you to swatch it out before beginning, then make sure you keep your tension exact as you work, while some build it into the pattern like Jen has.<br />
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And hey, you're doing it- you're reading the pattern! Now keep going. With our slippers, we're going to work round 4 once, and move on to 5. After you finish your first rnd 5, it says:<br />
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<i>Repeat rnd 5 until length reaches measurement in 3rd column of either menʼs or</i><br />
<i>womenʼs chart. Continue on to part 2.</i><br />
<i>Notes on final length of slipper: The total FINAL length should be either the same as</i><br />
<i>the measurement of the foot, or smaller. These slippers will stretch a LOT once they</i><br />
<i>are worn, do not make them longer than the actual foot measurement or they will end</i><br />
<i>up too big!</i><br />
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Remember that 7" from earlier? This is where it comes into play. I'm going to repeat rnd 5 until I can measure 7" from the start to the row I just worked. Your slipper is now vaguely torpedo shaped ;)<br />
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So now we continue on to part 2, or page 7 if you printed:<br />
<i>PART 2: (ALL SIZES)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
Hey, there's something bold- better read it!<br />
<i><b>Note:</b> This next section is now worked in ROWS instead of RNDS. When pattern says</i><br />
<i>“dc in very next available st”, make the dc in the top of the same post that was just used</i><br />
<i>for the fpdc. Use the number color-coded for the size you are making.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
This means that instead of crocheting the entire way around, we'll stop at a certain place and turn our work. I'm doing a wide width, remember, so I'm using the pink color coding. It's not going to show up on this blog, that's why you went and got the pattern yourself ;)<br />
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<i>Row 1: ch 2, dc in same st as ch 2, fpdc around next (22, 26, 30) post sts from prev</i><br />
<i>rnd, dc in very next available st, leave remaining 6 fpdc unworked. (22, 26, 30 fpdc plus</i><br />
<i>the ch 2 and 2 dc)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
So with Jen's pattern, the parenthesis means it's a stitch count- and they're color coded for easy use, I'm using pink, which is 26. If you're doing a regular width, you'd use the yellow 22, and for an extra wide, the blue 30. So as we work the row, you follow the instruction and repeat as many times as it says in the parenthesis. So a ch 2, dc in same stitch, then 26 FPDCs, and a final dc for a total of 29 stitches.<br />
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At this point, you can complete the pattern. Just take it slow and follow the instructions as presented. I hope this helps you gain the confidence and knowledge that you can read a written pattern, and don't hesitate to ask if you need a little clarification. You can do it. Takes practice, just like all other aspects of crochet ;)<br />
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You can doooo eeeeetttttttt! :D<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-3973918096798759172014-01-07T13:49:00.002-08:002014-01-07T13:51:36.216-08:00A New Year, A New Look Well, I've given the blog a facelift, hopefully that'll resolve the complaints about not being able to read the white text on the purple background with a non-average font :)<br />
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Coming soon:<br />
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How to read a print pattern!<br />
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C2C- Corner to corner topics including<br />
Color Changes<br />
Increasing/Decreasing<br />
Making it a rectangle and how to measure<br />
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A monthly pattern roundup on a variety of topics- I think keeping warm this january would be nice ;) I'll try to make it ones I've actually made, but there's only so much time in a day and I'm getting orders too. If you're a designer and would like me to consider your paid pattern, I've got to at least proof read it.<br />
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That should keep me busy through mid-February, so we'll revisit the topics list in a couple weeks and see what else needs kept up. I'm working on a very large special order, and that's gonna take priority for the time being :)<br />
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Happy Hookin'!<br />
(I'm going to start "signing" my posts with a picture of my current WIP)<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-62915670774461154092014-01-02T00:30:00.000-08:002014-01-02T00:30:02.486-08:00Technical Thursday: Hooking with ruffle yarn(a one skein scarf tutorial)Welcome to 2014!<br />
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I lurk on quite a few different crochet oriented pages/groups on facebook to get ideas for technical thursdays, and one of the things I've been seeing pop up a lot is "How do I work with ruffle/sashay/starbella/this weird yarn?"<br />
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Now, I own a single pair of knitting needles, but I am a hooker at heart ;) So I use a crochet method to make my ruffle scarves :)<br />
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So this week I'll be talking about options for ruffle yarn, how to use it properly, and helpful hints.<br />
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First things first- what are you going to use it for? You can make a scarf, or add ruffles to a skirt, or even the cuffs of a long sweater. Or you can use it as a plain, slightly flat super chunky weight yarn to make just about anything. For our purposes, we're going to say that we didn't spend $5 on 30 yards of super bulky yarn and are going to use it for ruffles.<br />
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One of the main problems people have with ruffle yarn is using it as intended, spreading it out into it's ruffle form as they work. It takes a very coordinated hand to hold, feed and spread at the same time. There is a very easy solution for this problem, but it does add to your time totals- a toilet paper roll :) Simply take 15 minutes and gently flatten it out as you roll it onto the tube and then you're ready to go :)<br />
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I've rerolled my yarn and am ready to work with it now ;)<br />
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Yes, the pictures are out of order. But now that we're ready to work, which side do we use? Hmm, maybe that side with the thick edge and sparkles wove in! Nope. Actually, we work in the second row of loops from the top, opposite the sparkly edge. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mMLj6tZDejY/UsSlBOqr78I/AAAAAAAAARQ/pDDiFaidlcE/s1600/20140101_175757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mMLj6tZDejY/UsSlBOqr78I/AAAAAAAAARQ/pDDiFaidlcE/s320/20140101_175757.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b><u>How to make a 1 skein ruffle scarf using a crochet hook</u></b></h3>
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So now I'm stretching it out a little bit- I want to start my stitches in the 2nd row, the second "hole" that is not cut open.<br />
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Now I insert my hook from front to back, and yarn over by drawing the top edge around the back of my hook which I immediately stick into the next "hole" and create a working loop by slip stitching.<br />
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Next, pick a magic number- the higher the number(I'd recommend between 6 and 10), the tighter your ruffles will be. I use 8 or 10. By sticking your hook in every other "hole" on the 2nd row, you want to get your magic number of loops on your hook.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xb90UMmbOEc/UsSoZP8W2yI/AAAAAAAAASI/FflRU6UARd4/s1600/20140101_183844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xb90UMmbOEc/UsSoZP8W2yI/AAAAAAAAASI/FflRU6UARd4/s320/20140101_183844.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once you've got the desired number of loops on the hook, stick your hook in the next "hole" and perform a slip stitch. </div>
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Then start over, doing a slip stitch every 8-10 loops on the hook. Continue this until you run out of yarn- 1 skein makes 1 perfect sized scarf for most purposes. When you get to the end of the skein, simply leave the last 5 or so "holes" unworked and pull the loop left on your hook as wide as you can and slip your end into it, and pull it tight. Some people add liquid stitch to make sure it holds, some use a bit of thread or coordinating yarn and hem the end, some just leave it as it is.<br />
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Got a knot? Gently untie it if you can, and do a slip stitch to hold both ends together as you continue to work on the scarf. Or, if you're so inclined, you can leave it knotted and work over it, it'll disappear into the ruffles(usually- there's always the wicked knot/ball determined to prove me wrong, but on a general basis, it works).Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-15761367009269904612013-12-26T10:51:00.002-08:002013-12-26T10:51:37.842-08:00Technical Thursday: Toilet paper tube Pom Poms<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
And I figured today would be a great time for the years first(and last) Technical Thursday :D As we prepared for the holidays, I saw a lot of random pictures and tutorials that I'll never see again, or be able to credit, but the one that stuck with me was a picture of someone making a pom pom with toilet paper rolls. A couple dozen of which I currently have stashed for future kid projects. So as I was finishing my father in law's present(did I mention I got married 2 months ago?) I grabbed my cell phone and started snapping pictures. Again, some day I will own my very own Canon Rebel camera and assorted lenses, but until then, we're stuck with what we've got available, lol. </div>
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So this is how I made the pom pom. </div>
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You need yarn, 2 toilet paper rolls, and scissors. Liquid stitch is optional, I just like to soak the center of my pom poms in hopes that they won't fall apart as easily as they normally do. It's just their nature to fall apart. </div>
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1. Cut 2 12-16" lengths of whatever color you want your ties to be. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGzgkCiiXGI/Urx1Q4dxUBI/AAAAAAAAAPM/J6Jh-uNmpEQ/s1600/20131222_124242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGzgkCiiXGI/Urx1Q4dxUBI/AAAAAAAAAPM/J6Jh-uNmpEQ/s320/20131222_124242.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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2. Hold the tails of your yarn and begin winding around both tubes</div>
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3. Overlap on your tails a bit so you don't have keep your finger holding them down</div>
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4. Keep wrapping- the thicker the wrap, the fluffier the pompom. </div>
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5. Once you've reached your desired thickness, work one of your tail lengths of yarn UNDER all the wrapped yarn(I used a crochet hook) </div>
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6. Center the tail and TIE TIGHTLY. Then work the yarn underneath again and TIE IT AGAIN. </div>
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7. Flip it over, and repeat step 6. </div>
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8. Now slide the tubes most of the way out, and tie the two tails together. Gently remove the tubes and tie the centers together carefully and repeatedly. I tied them together, then wound the tails around again and tied twice more. Bulky knots will not be visible once you fluff, just take care to leave enough tail to attach to what you are working on. </div>
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9. Optional: Coat your center ties and knots with liquid stitch for durability. </div>
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10. Gently insert your scissors and begin cutting the loops. Take care to avoid cutting your tails, but do snip your working yarn off. </div>
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11. Repeat on the other side. Fluff and let dry. </div>
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12. Attach to your project and enjoy. </div>
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Before I saw the picture that sparked this idea, I was using a double wide DVD case and doing essentially the same thing. I find that the toilet paper tubes are a little more forgiving and easier to work with because I wasn't worried about scraping the cover ;) </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-29388055309757986402013-11-26T09:19:00.000-08:002013-11-26T09:19:06.503-08:00Technical Tuesday will be on Thursdays ;) So I'm quite busy these days, who says stay at home moms do nothing? I co-lead our daughter's GS troop, deal with ADHD/mood disorder in our 4 year old, cook, clean and crochet.<br />
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We had a really hard month in October, with 2 ER visits, a 3 day hospital stay, a postponed wedding, a cancelled reception, mandatory time off, a wedding, a broken van, a truck that needed extra repairs to pass inspection and more.<br />
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I also created a logo for fun, it's simple and stylistic, but I like it:<br />
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I also had my first REAL order from a non-family member! I put it in the mail yesterday and am hoping she likes it ;) A school chum, but still she purchased 2 hats and a headband(and got one free since I didn't particularly care for the way the one she ordered turned out). </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JpspwpU0KjY/UpTW21PGd8I/AAAAAAAAAO0/-4dXNlnenzU/s1600/autumnorder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JpspwpU0KjY/UpTW21PGd8I/AAAAAAAAAO0/-4dXNlnenzU/s320/autumnorder.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I worked up the headband on my own taking pieces of other free patterns I found on the web after the original pattern turned out being completely incomprehensible to me. It was a combination of UK terminology and implied rows that weren't written out.<br />
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So needless to say, I won't be posting this week. Or maybe I will. But it'll be Thanksgiving and I am hosting, so I just might not get around to it.<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-17699548398900188192013-09-05T12:10:00.001-07:002013-09-05T12:10:28.810-07:00Busy busy busy!I feel the need to apologize. I do end up letting the blog slide when I get busy with the kids and their activities. I've had a crazy day today, even, but have great news! My baby will be starting Head Start this next monday, so I'll have 20 free hours a week to actually crochet and work on the blog ;) It's a bittersweet event, and it'll probably take me a few weeks to scrape all the accumulated toddler contamination off of everything, LOL. I'm still testing for Crafting Friends and Crochet by Jennifer, though I haven't had time to work on swaps, I suppose I'll have more time soon to do that too. I'm a Brownie girl-scout leader as well- just a crazy crocheting housewife :D I've been crocheting a lot, so I'll add pictures that I can find of stuff too. Sorry for the picture dump!<br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-14810509535620957932013-01-06T18:36:00.001-08:002013-01-06T18:36:23.003-08:002013I think I'm sufficiently recovered from the flood of holidays and birthdays that come our way during the last 6 weeks of the year. (3 holidays and 4, yes, 4! birthdays in our family between mid November and the end of the year).<br />
<br />
So I'll be back soon. I've been cheating on my hooks, and doing other crafty things. I'm currently waiting on a big box o' fun (fur!) from Herrschner's, and I'll be working on some fun stuff when that arrives. It's complicated, but a short version could be that serendipity decided to intervene after my mother in law played with my daughter's Furby all of Christmas Day, and I was gifted a free pattern to match, and she's been known to complain about my crocheting, so guess what she's getting for her birthday in a couple weeks? *Insert evil gigglesnort here* I think I'll make her a hat and put the actual creature in the hat so it's doubly crazy.<br />
<br />
I've been spending a lot of time down at the bus stop, and I'm thinking I need a big ole cowl that I can wear as a hood AND twist over my face for a ski mask or veil effect. I also need to make my son the tow truck hat (cough*mater* cough cough) because he now accompanies us seeing as Daddy finally found another job and has started back on the road. Not so good for my Valentine's day options, but way healthier on the budget and definitely a winner in the "OMG Get out of my house for 20 freaking minutes!" department(I love him. But we've literally been at each other's side for two months. Even retirees go play golf for 4+ hours at a time!) Alrighty, that seems like enough of a welcome back ramble.<br />
<br />
Keep on Hookin'! Happy 2013~Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-46024204192496397282012-11-03T11:56:00.002-07:002013-09-05T12:20:39.431-07:00Free Pattern: Granny's Favorite Reversible Stocking ;) Granny's Favorite Stocking (Reversible!)<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNnICsrA6A/UJVjvmtM2-I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Z8cjYMlDkYE/s1600/grannysfavstocking.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="136" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jFNnICsrA6A/UJVjvmtM2-I/AAAAAAAAAJI/Z8cjYMlDkYE/s1600/grannysfavstocking.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Materials:<br />
I hook(9/5.5mm)<br />
1 skein worsted weight<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Red</li>
<li>Green</li>
<li>Mistletoe</li>
</ul>
Small amount of white yarn<br />
Red and Green Material for lining(optional but highly recommended)<br />
Sewing Needle<br />
Sewing Thread<br />
<br />
<br />
Make 22 in Mistletoe, 11 in Green, and 11 in Red<br />
<br />
Ch 3, join into circle.<br />
Ch 2(Counts as first DC) and DC 3 more times into circle(4 DC)<br />
Ch 3, then 4 DC into circle- repeat until you have 4 ch 3 spaces and 4 groups of 4 DC<br />
Join into top of Ch 2. Ch 1, SC in same st. SC in next two stitches, and 5 sc in ch 3 space. 3 SC in next 3, then 5 sc in next ch 3 space. Repeat around. Join, finish off, weaving ends as you go.<br />
<br />
Once you have all 44 squares, whipstitch together as shown in the picture. Use red and mistletoe on one side, and green and mistletoe on the other with 2 rows of 5 and 4 rows of 3. Using the opposite solid color(red on the green/mistletoe side, green on the red/mistletoe)I did seven stitches on each side of the squares, leaving one on each corner. If you need to have your yarn travel, do it on the wrong sides, as this becomes the interior. Make sure that one side has the toe on the right, and the other has the toe box on the left. Once your squares are assembled, using the same color yarn you used to attach them, sc around. 7 SC on the outer side of each square, 3 sc in each corner space. Ch 1 for each spot where the two corners meet and skip those two corners, and 7 sc in next square. Then, wrong sides together, and using mistletoe, SC through both sides together.<br />
<br />
Make the cuff by SC in each stitch around the top, for 5-10 rows(Using worsted weight, do 10, using super bulky, do 5). Finish off and fold it down. Line with material as desired. Don't forget to securely attach a loop at the top above the heel for hanging.<br />
<br />
Enjoy!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-6406269907064158232012-10-30T06:22:00.000-07:002012-10-31T06:32:26.502-07:00Technical Tuesday: These hooks ain't for crochetingHere's hoping I can get back in the groove and on time with stuff ;)<br />
<br />
Today's technical Tuesday deals with our most revered tool- the crochet hook. They come in aluminum, acrylic, bamboo, wood. Plain, or wrapped in fimo, sometimes with pencil grips, they are the most important tool we have. You can gnaw through yarn if you can't find your scissors, but without the hook, you're sunk.<br />
<br />
So here's a list of suggested household uses for a crochet hook, and they have nothing to do with crochet ;)<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Clean your ears and ensure that your hook is well waxed ;) </li>
<li>Tie a drawstring that has fallen out of a waistband around it and then use it to pull it back through</li>
<li>Great for clogs in a drain</li>
<li>Back scratcher extraordinaire </li>
<li>Undoing a super knot? A hook can help</li>
<li>Highlight your hair</li>
<li>Unstick things in small electronics(though aluminum might mess with the electronic components) </li>
<li>Open the foil/paper seal on small bottles </li>
<li>A hair accessory- like chopsticks </li>
<li>To fetch something from a small hole</li>
<li>Wrap a thin dishcloth over the top and use it to clean small crevices in sippy cups or bottles</li>
<li>Need an extra 4-6 inches of reach? Use your hook to avoid stretching</li>
<li>Fix snags </li>
<li>A broken zipper may be zipped or unzipped with a small hook. </li>
<li>Close a difficult button/hole</li>
<li>Do your curtains stick on your curtain rod? Use a hook to loosen the snag on the inside</li>
<li>Aerate the soil on your houseplants</li>
<li>Gently remove the ornaments you can't reach on your holiday tree</li>
</ul>
<br /><br />
And there are tons of other fun uses that have nothing to do with crocheting :) I'm a proud hooker and I love the tools of my trade but that doesn't stop me from having fun with it too.<br />
<br />
Happy Halloween!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-37738282028441967652012-10-07T11:57:00.000-07:002012-10-09T11:57:59.575-07:00Well, I've been ill lately, and not doing much of anything other than being a lump. I apologize for the extended hiatus, and hope to be back on track by next week. <br />
<br />
<br />
See you soon!<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-58682883137399096202012-09-11T07:52:00.000-07:002012-09-13T06:26:06.556-07:00Technical Tuesday: Crochet Terms (Part 1)Whether you're a new hand or old at crocheting, sometimes you'll look at a term and just can't figure out what it means. So here is a comprehensive list of common(or not) crochet terms. This is done in US terminology ;) <br />
<br />
* (The Asterisk): is found in patterns that repeat frequently, turning "SC in next, 2SC in next, SC, 2SC, SC, 2SC into *SC in next stitch, 2 DC in next* Repeat from * around. <br />
<br />
SC (Single Crochet): Insert your hook into your stitch, pull up a loop, pull through both loops on hook. <br />
<br />
DC (Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop. You should have 3 loops on the hook. Pull up a loop through the first two loops, leaving two loops on hook. Pull up again. <br />
<br />
TR (Treble Crochet): Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop. 4 loops on hook. Pull up a loop through 2, pull up a loop through 2, pull up a loop through the last two.<br />
<br />
FL (Front Loop): Instead of using both loops on the stitch you're working into, do the next stitch into the front loop of the stitch only, the loop closest to you(This is hard to explain, pic. tutorial coming soon)<br />
<br />
BL (Back Loop): Same as front loop except that you only use the loop on the back of your work<br />
<br />
CH (Chain): This is your starting chain or a simple stitch designed to move your yarn and hook up where it needs to be to create a stitch. It is simply pulling up a loop without working through any stitches<br />
<br />
INC (Increase): This means to put 2 identical stitches into the same stitch from the last row/round. <br />
<br />
DEC (Decrease): This means to take 2 stitches from the previous row/round and put them together into 1 stitch in your new row. <br />
<br />
SC2Tog (SC 2 together): This is the SC version of a decrease. Insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a 3rd loop. Pull a loop up through all 3 loops on the hook. <br />
<br />
DC2Tog (DC 2 Together): This is the DC version of a decrease. Yarn over, and insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop. Pull up a loop through the first 2 loops on the hook, leaving 2 loops. Yarn over, and insert into the next stitch. Pull up a loop, then pull up a loop through 2 loops at a time until you have 1 loop left on the hook. <br />
<br />
MC (Magic Circle): A common way of starting a project that will be done in rounds or spiral. (There's a tutorial elsewhere in this blog if you need more help) The MC is more adjustable than the traditional method of chaining, joining and stitching in the loop, or putting more than 2 stitches into 1 stitch of a chain. <br />
<br />
CA/B/C (Color A, Color B, Color C): A way to differentiate between colors when switching during crocheting. <br />
<br />
RS (Right Side): This is the side that will be visible when you wear or display something<br />
<br />
RND (Round): This is when you are crocheting in a circle or spiral. The ends will meet or overlap with the first stitch of the round. Synonomous with row when working on a project.<br />
<br />
ROW: A certain amount of stitches as you work on the project, the ends do not meet or overlap, producing a flat project. <br />
<br />
SL ST(Slip Stitch): to insert your hook into the stitch and pull up a loop through the 1 loop already on your hook. This is a flat stitch frequently used to move the working yarn along stitches that don't need worked, or to edge a piece with contrasting fiber. <br />
<br />
FROG: To "rip it, rip it"- removing stitches to fix an error. <br />
<br />
TENSION: The amount of give your stitches have, controlled by how you hold your yarn as you work. Loose tension equals stitches that can easily snag, twist, or stretch too far, ruining your work, but some projects require this give. <br />
<br />
GAUGE: How many stitches should equal a certain size, i.e. Gauge= 3DC and 2 rows = 1" So two rows of 3 DC should be an inch square<br />
<br />
SWATCH: A sample done to see if your tension and hook size can give you the gauge needed to complete your project true to size<br />
<br />
YO (Yarn over): To wrap your working yarn around your hook one or more times, giving you more loops to work on, creating bigger stitches. <br />
<br />
JOIN: The process of SL ST into the first stitch in the round. Used when crocheting in the round. <br />
<br />
SPIRAL: The process of crocheting in the round WITHOUT joining each round.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Now, I know this is just the bare basics. I will add a second post at some point in the future explaining more as I learn them ;) <br />
<br />
Happy Hookin' Ya'll! <br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-34324421576181627582012-09-04T06:50:00.002-07:002012-09-04T06:50:30.206-07:00Technial Tuesday: Blocking without an iron!Hope everyone had a productive Labor Day weekend! <br />
<br />
And it's Tuesday again. Today I'm covering blocking, as it's fresh in my mind. You see, I didn't believe I'd ever have to block anything, so I was kind of at a loss when I finished my doily. And at the risk of turning in my Homemaker Club Card, I must admit that I don't own an iron... Hehe. I need one, I have visions of melty pegboard beads and being able to wash my curtains without borrowing my mother in laws again, but everytime I look at the store, they never seem to be in stock. <br />
<br />
So I had a large doily to block, and no iron. But I'm quite happy with what I did. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4RJSc-L0Txw/UEYAxkyQC5I/AAAAAAAAAHg/jSxihwWgHo4/s1600/SAM_2742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4RJSc-L0Txw/UEYAxkyQC5I/AAAAAAAAAHg/jSxihwWgHo4/s320/SAM_2742.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
What you need:<br />
Item to be blocked<br />
Stainless Steel T pins<br />
A blocking board- I used a piece of foam backing I grabbed out of the dollar store school section<br />
Spray Starch<br />
A scrap towel<br />
A bowl to wash the item in<br />
(Optional) I used liquid stitch on my ends, though I read later that it'll eventually turn yellow with age<br />
A clean workspace<br />
<br />
<br />
Step 1: Wash the item in cool water with a drop or two of dish(NOT DISHWASHER) soap. Gently swirl it in the water to remove any oils that accumulated while you were working it up(make sure your hands are clean too!). I highly recommend this to be brief and to test any contrasting colors for colorfastness before using anything resembling warm water. Rinse and move to your work area.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dMK2dPnIsYs/UEYA60Bqz0I/AAAAAAAAAHo/QhGFmRcowY0/s1600/SAM_2743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dMK2dPnIsYs/UEYA60Bqz0I/AAAAAAAAAHo/QhGFmRcowY0/s320/SAM_2743.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 2: Lay your item out on half of the towel and gently blot it to remove excess water. Following the directions on your starch, light mist the top of your item with the starch, flip it over carefully, gently blot, and starch the other side. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sDvT5b7DRls/UEYBBNudgmI/AAAAAAAAAHw/6drz_VGCC3g/s1600/SAM_2744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sDvT5b7DRls/UEYBBNudgmI/AAAAAAAAAHw/6drz_VGCC3g/s320/SAM_2744.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 3: Transfer to your blocking board, right side up. This could layers of cardboard or a professionally made item. If you need to pin at certain measurements, draw a graph of the appropriate size on your board before beginning. I did not feel the need to do this, so I skipped it this time. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Using the T pins, start in the center and work your way out, making sure the damp strands look exactly like they should when it's done drying and that the needles are holding the tension as they should. I went all the way through both sides of the foam board I used. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4P8vWH7sxSM/UEYBHokHNfI/AAAAAAAAAH4/Uu__97WUmHs/s1600/SAM_2747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4P8vWH7sxSM/UEYBHokHNfI/AAAAAAAAAH4/Uu__97WUmHs/s320/SAM_2747.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Step 4: Run around madly showing everyone you can find your newest creation (Just kidding, sort of. Just because I did doesn't mean you have to!) Step 4 is actually to put it away and not fidget with it. Let it dry overnight, preferably for 24 hours. <br />
<br />
Step 5: Remove your pins and put your creation on display :) <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZO37AqroqaA/UEYBOfKiNYI/AAAAAAAAAIA/wWVHRgn0Ggw/s1600/SAM_2750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZO37AqroqaA/UEYBOfKiNYI/AAAAAAAAAIA/wWVHRgn0Ggw/s320/SAM_2750.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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In retrospect, I didn't have enough t pins to adequately block. I should of placed one in each point around the outside, but the store only had 1 box of 40, and there is something like 53 points just around the outside, not including the ones I had to place inside. But I made it work, and so can you. Just remember to pin it exactly as you want it to look :)<br />
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Keep on Hookin'! <br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-18122418458262950712012-08-30T06:10:00.000-07:002012-08-30T06:10:03.850-07:00Free Patten: Lovey Dovey baby toy blanketWell this is my first attempt at a "Build your own design" pattern, so be gentle with me ;) It's untested, so I'd love to see any finished ones made from it as well! Enjoy!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><div align="LEFT">
Lovey Dovey</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Creekside Crochet © 2012</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Materials:</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
F Hook</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Worsted Weight Yarn</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Stitch Markers</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Stocking or old pantyhose</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Fiberfil</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
Tapestry Needle</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
This pattern is meant to be customizable to your own specifications, so what color you use is up</div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
to you. I made a frog in this example.</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
<strong><u>Head:(Make 1)</u></strong></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT">
This is crocheted in spiral, do NOT join. Move your stitch marker down as you go.</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 1: 6 SC in magic circle (6)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 2: 2 SC in each SC of previous rnd. (12)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 3: SC in first stitch, 2 SC in second stitch, repeat around. (18)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 4: SC around (18)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 5: SC in next 2 stitches, 2 SC in next, repeat around(24)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 6: SC in next 3 stitches, 2 SC in next, repeat around(30)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 7: SC in next 4 stitches, 2 SC in next, repeat around(36)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 8: SC around (36)</div>
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<div align="LEFT">
Rnd 9-12: Repeat Rnd 8</div>
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Rnd 13: SC in next 4 stitches, SC2Tog in next, repeat around(30)</div>
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Rnd 14: Place a special stitch marker at the beginning and end of this round! SC in next 3</div>
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stitches, SC2Tog in next, repeat around(24)</div>
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Rnd 15: SC in next 2 stitches, SC2Tog, repeat around(18)</div>
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Now we stuff, remember to leave the stitch markers on either side of round 14(make sure they’re</div>
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removable from the outside)! Insert the stocking toe into the head. Stuff FIRMLY, making a ball.</div>
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Tie the rest of the stocking in a knot, and cut off anything that hangs down past the knot. This is</div>
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to add durability and stop the fiberfill from coming out during machine washing.</div>
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Rnd 16: SC in next st, SC2Tog around until close. Pull tight and fasten off. Leave a tail.</div>
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Using tapestry needle, weave tail back around rnd 16 and pull tight again. Fasten off.</div>
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<u><strong>Arms (Make 2):</strong></u></div>
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Ch 7. Starting in second ch from hook, SC in each Ch. (6 SC)</div>
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Turn, and in front loop only, sc in next 5 st. 2 SC in next, turning and working in back loops, sc</div>
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around (12 SC) Do NOT join!</div>
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SC around in spiral maner for 7 rounds(84 SC)</div>
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Stuff firmly</div>
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Pinch open end closed, making sure it goes the same direction as bottom of arm.</div>
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Working through next SC and one behind it, SC them together. Continuing to work through both</div>
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as 1, SC in next 5 stitches, leaving a seam of 6 sc. Ch 1, turn.</div>
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2 HDC in next sc, sl st in next, 2 HDC in next sc, sl st in next, 2 HDC in next, sl st. Fasten Off.</div>
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<strong><u>BLANKET: (Pick one of the following, all work in the SC row created in the next step)</u></strong></div>
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Pick up the head. Going from one stitch marker to another, SC through top and bottom of each</div>
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stitch, join (24)</div>
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<strong><u>12 Point Ripple:</u></strong></div>
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Rnd 2: Ch 5, DC in same stitch as join. *Sk next sc, DC in next, Ch 2, DC in same stitch.*</div>
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Repeat from * around, joining in 3rd ch of starting ch 6. (12 Ch 2 spaces)</div>
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Rnd 3: Sl st to Ch 2 space. Ch 3,DC, Ch 2, 2 DC (Beg. Shell made), Shell in each ch 2 space</div>
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around(12 Shells Made)</div>
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Rnd 4: Sl st to Ch 2 space. Beg. Shell, DC in next DC. *Sk 2 st, DC in next DC, Shell, DC in</div>
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next DC* Repeat from * around, joining in 3rd ch of Beg. Shell. (12 Shells, 24 DC)</div>
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Rnd 5: Sl st to Ch 2 space. Beg. Shell, DC in next 2(3,4,5) DC. *Skip 2, DC in next 2 DC, Shell,</div>
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DC in next 2 DC* Repeat around. (12 Shells, 48 DCs)</div>
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Rnd 6-15: Repeat Rnd 5, adding a DC to each side of the shells until you reach the desired size</div>
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from point to point. Most loveys are between 12 and 18 inches across.</div>
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For a fun finish, crab stitch in sc around the last row, putting 4 sc in each ch 2 space from the</div>
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shells, and skipping 2 halfway between each shell. Fasten off, weave in ends.</div>
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<u><strong>Circle:</strong></u></div>
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Rnd 2: Ch 3, DC in same sp. 2 DC in each stitch around. Join in top of ch 3. (48)</div>
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Rnd 3: Ch 3, DC in next space, 2 DC in next. DC, 2 DC around (72)</div>
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Rnd 4: Ch 3, DC in next 2(3,4,5), 2 DC in next. *DC in next 2, 2 DC in next* Repeat around</div>
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(96)</div>
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Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 4, adding a DC before each 2 DC spot, until you reach the desired width.</div>
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Make a final round of crab stitch in sc to finish, continuing the increase so it lays flat.</div>
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<strong><u>Square:</u></strong></div>
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Rnd 1: Ch 3, DC in next 4 SCs. Ch 2, sk next st, and DC in next 5. Repeat 2 time. Connect ch 2</div>
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to top of starting ch 3(20 DC/ 4 Ch 2 spaces)</div>
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Rnd 2: Ch 3, DC in next 4 DCs. Shell in ch 2 space. Repeat around, joining at top of ch 3. (36</div>
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DC/ 4 Ch 2 spaces)</div>
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Rnd 3: Ch 3, DC in next 6 DCs. *Shell in ch 2 space. DC in next 8 DCs* Repeat from * around,</div>
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finishing with 2 DCs and joining at top of ch 3.</div>
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Continue making rounds in this manner until you reach the size you want, increasing each row as</div>
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demonstrated.</div>
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<strong><u>Finishing:</u></strong></div>
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Using more yarn and your needle, sew the arm to the first rnd of the blanket, firmly. Count over</div>
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6 sc and attach the second arm.</div>
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EMBROIDER a mouth and eyes, or firmly sew on your own embellishments. I recommend</div>
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using liquid stitch for finishing purposes, it’s non toxic and machine washable, and comes in</div>
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handy for making the ends of yarn stay where you put them.</span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-3901462548752045972012-08-28T05:00:00.000-07:002012-08-28T05:00:15.939-07:00Technical Tuesday: Pattern Testing EttiquetteAs hookers, we all can appreciate a well written pattern with few or no mistakes. As pattern creators, we know that the way we do things might need a little more explanation to make sense to someone who is new to crocheting, or just thinks differently than you. <br />
<br />
Sure, it seems like a great deal. Make a pattern in a set amount of time, take pictures, give feedback, get a free pattern, easy as pie, right? <br />
<br />
WRONG!<br />
<br />
Pattern testing is quite serious, and as I've been learning recently, designers often try to both advertise and work out any bugs, misspellings, measurements problems, etc, by sending their new pattern to a select few hookers(though this applies to any type of pattern). Relationships are developed over time, and while you're not being paid, it is still work. The designers are counting on the testers to get the pattern done, submit pictures, and let them know if there are any problems or flaws with the pattern. They will(most likely) be selling this pattern to people, it is how many designers supplement their household budget. <br />
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There is basic ettiquette that must be followed, however, to keep any testing/design relationship in a good status, and while most are common sense, sometimes people just don't think about it. <br />
<br />
<strong><u>DO NOT</u></strong><br />
~ Accept a testing assignment if you don't have the materials on hand. If you accept a test that needs to be completed in 24 hours, and wait 5 hours to go to the store only to find that what you need is out of stock, then come home, and send a message to the designer, then that give them 18 hours to find someone else on an even tighter time limit, if they even see the message before the next morning. <br />
<br />
~ Change the pattern without the designer's express permission!! This is a pet peeve of many a designer. The point of testing is to produce a product as directed. If you are having problems, contact the designer and work through it. <br />
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~ Forget to keep in contact with the designer as you work! This is not quite as important on short term assignments, but for larger items that can take a week or two to work through, telling a designer that you have a problem and then dropping off the face of the earth does nothing but make you look bad and get you banned from testing for them in the future, and usually from their designer friends as well. There are no stupid questions, and the designers like the chance to practice coaching people who have problems through them so they can do it with future customers. <br />
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~Take a test when you won't have time to finish it. If you know it takes you three days to make a hat, especially one with a lot of small pieces or shaping, do NOT accept a test for a hat that is due back tommorrow. Seriously. I know you adore the pattern, but each day of the testing phase is money out of their pocket when they could be selling it to people. <br />
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~ DO NOT FEEL FREE TO SHARE THE PATTERN! I cannot emphasize this enough. Even if your best friend begs and pleads and says that's all she wants for her birthday is a copy of that pattern, DO NOT DO IT! If she needs her own copy, purchase it for her. Many designers would love to send gift patterns and might even give you a slight discount for your honesty and knowing they can trust you.<br />
<br />
~ Test if you do not have internet, or a camera to take pictures. You will have to PROVE that you are actually doing the work. <br />
<br />
~ DO NOT BADMOUTH the designer! This makes you look like an ass. If you truly cannot figure out the way to complete the pattern, even with special coaching, and half a dozen other people do figure it out, then you just look like a spiteful idiot. Sometimes a testing relationship can become strained because the designer is unable to explain it to the tester. This does not mean the pattern is flawed, merely more difficult than anticipated. This does not make you, or the designer, an idiot because you cannot complete the pattern. It's how you conduct yourself in the community as a whole. <br />
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<strong><u>DO</u></strong><br />
~ Keep in contact. If you're running behind on your test, or ran out of yarn because your cat dragged your WIP into the bathroom and left it in the toilet, let them know! Most will understand that life happens, and see if there's something they can do virtually to help you speed up. Once. If it becomes apparent that you're just trying to gather as many free patterns as possible, you will not be invited to test again and potentially blackballed by the online community as a whole. <br />
<br />
~ Tag the designer and/or tell everyone where the pattern comes from- this helps the sales of your designer. Those sales are what allows them to continue designing fun and wonderful patterns for people. Shamelessly advertise that you were able to make it because of this pattern. Word of mouth is the best reference there is. <br />
<br />
~Ask Questions! Sometimes you'll ask what may seem to be a silly question and work out the solution while waiting for an answer, but those "silly" questions are what alerts the designer to potential problems. <br />
<br />
~ Be willing to FROG/RIP IT! Occasionally, you'll be working on a pattern when it becomes apparent that the particular stitch is too airy for the intended use, and the designer will have to make MAJOR changes to the pattern. When you commit to test, you are commiting to producing a final product as designed. So if the design gets changed halfway through, you must change your product. Of course, you can always start over with more yarn if you have it on hand and recycle the mistake later on, but don't stubbornly stick to the first version pattern and then get upset when you're not invited to test again. <br />
<br />
<br />
Pattern testing is a fun experience, but requires trust on both sides. Trust the designer to know what s/he is writing and what the finished product should look like. They are trusting you to follow through, do what you promised, and NOT give away their livlihood to all your friends. Common sense and good ettiquette is mutually beneficial, all around!<br />
<br />
Happy Hookin' Ya'll! Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6136030076940357025.post-39821721497200310012012-08-21T08:00:00.000-07:002012-08-21T08:00:10.907-07:00Technical Tuesday: Magic Circle TutorialIt's Tuesday!<br />
<br />
Time for Technical Tuesday here at Creekside Crochet, and today's topic is that mysterious magic circle. <br />
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Often labeled as MC(not to be confused with Main Color), the magic circle is a way to start crocheting that leaves an adjustable center start to anything that will be crocheted in the round. <br />
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First, we "thread" our yarn, holding as we normally do.<br />
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Now, we pull the yarn around the outside of our thumb, bringing the tail over the top of the yarn, as shown. I pin the tail down with my middle finger so I have my other hand free to hold the hook.</div>
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Next, we insert our hook under the yarn by sliding it up the thumb from the base. Notice that the tail end is OVER the horizontal yarn, while the hook is UNDER the same piece. </div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bt8m2GpCITA/UDL0RN-i47I/AAAAAAAAAGc/1Wx1x_Es7kI/s1600/SAM_2679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bt8m2GpCITA/UDL0RN-i47I/AAAAAAAAAGc/1Wx1x_Es7kI/s320/SAM_2679.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
That horizontal yarn is your working yarn. With your hook, use that strand to yarn over and pull up a loop.<br />
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Chain 1(or 2,3, whatever you need to match the stitches you plan on using, I used SC)<br />
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Now, gently slide your work off your thumb. It might seem loose, but that chain is holding it together. <br />
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At this point, pinch over the chain where it's on the hook and resettle your yarn on your hand so you have your tension. Once settled, SC(or whatever) into the loop, crocheting over both the loop and the tail, but be careful not to lose the tail as you go. </div>
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Once you have the proper number of stitches in your loop, begin gently pulling on the tail</div>
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Once the stitches meet in the middle, slip stitch into the first stitch made, again crocheting over the tail. Chain once and continue onto round 2.</div>
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Continue working over the tail as you go, making sure to keep the center closed. Eventually you will run out of tail to cover and have a clean tight start to your circle. </div>
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Magic circles come in handy. To use a magic circle instead of the Ch 3, sl st to form a ring, 6 SC in ring, simply don't make a chain and instead do 6 SCs in the magic circle. Practice as many times as you need to and know that yes, we all feel a little weird making a gun hand with what looks like cats cradle wrapped around it! But it really is an easy way to start a circle, and many amigurumi patterns use this method to leave a tight circle :) </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09319645097918901280noreply@blogger.com0